The two-and-a-half hour AVE train journey from Madrid Atocha station got us into Seville Santa Justa at 2:30pm, as promised (read more about it in Getting around Spain in planes, trains, and automobiles). A short wait in the taxi line and we were in one, headed to the Gran Meliá Colón for our 2-night stay. The check in process was a little more than your average wait-in-a-line method. We were seated at the check-in desk and served a glass of champagne while the receptionist got us sorted out.
We were offered an upgrade to a suite (with the appropriate upcharge, of course), but I couldn’t pass up this view from our bedroom window of an orange tree lined street and so opted to stay in the originally booked room.
View from our room
As we settled in, I noticed something unique. There was a glass wall separating the bath from the room. Quite contemporary indeed. But that’s not what caught my attention. What did catch my attention was the curtain that would give you your privacy while you showered - it was on the room side.
A glass-walled bathroom
Allow me to fast forward a few frames of your imagination. Essentially, what could happen here is that the curtain can be opened by someone in the room (accidentally, of course) while you’re showering, rendering you in plain view of your travelling companions. Not that this is a bad design. I actually think it’s great to be able to watch TV while you shower. However, I can’t help but wonder how many innocent minds have been scarred for life because of this design or the room service staff who wished they had delayed their deliveries just a little bit. Anyway, moving on.
In keeping with true Spanish tradition, we took in a much needed afternoon siesta that rejuvenated us for a night out on the town. Spanish cities are known to come alive at night and Seville did not disappoint. We spent our first evening in Spain discovering Barrio Santa Cruz.
Barrio Santa Cruz
Tapas bars, flamenco shows, and boutique shops are just a few of the things that line the narrow streets and alleys of this neighborhood. What used to be Jewish quarters back in the 15th century is now a bustling gathering place for locals and tourists alike. We stepped out of the hotel, glanced at the four alleys that faced us, and picked one.
Shopping on the way to Barrio Santa Cruz
To take out your smartphone and accurately plot your course through Barrio Santa Cruz would be like asking someone to tell you the contents of a novel you’re about to read. Instead, just lose yourself in this enchanting labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys and let it give you a glimpse of life here 700 years ago. What used to be homes are now hostels, shops, restaurants, and tapas bars.
Speaking of tapas bars, you’ll find no shortage of them on Calle Mateos Gago. Strategically located at the entrance of the street, and facing the Giralda across Plaza Virgen de los Reyes is Restaurante el Giraldillo, where we had a less than impressive experience. Know that you’re paying for the view at this establishment, as the food was not stellar. The cost of looking at the Giralda while you dine is factored in the menu prices. However, just a few steps into Calle Mateos Gago, you’ll have a very different problem on your hands - trying to decide which restaurant or tapas bar to choose. We strolled the length of the street and found our gem toward the end - a cozy but lively place called Taberna Belmonte. You can sit indoors or out on the sidewalks of the streets on either side of the tapas bar. The tapa portions of virtually everything on the menu means you can sample a variety dishes rather than being limited to any one dinner entrée.
Dine outdoors at Taberna Belmonte
Just around the corner from Taberna Belmonte is Casa de la Guitarra, a popular flamenco cultural center. Sadly, the show was completely sold out and we were not able to get tickets.
Outside the popular Casa de la Guitarra
Next door to Casa de la Guitarra is Lunares, a souvenir shop where you’ll find locally made handicrafts.
Lunares (local handicrafts)
But Santa Cruz is not all shops and tapas bars. Nestled in this maze are also more secluded alleys.
Barrio Santa Cruz
Barrio Santa Cruz
Catedral de Sevilla
A trip to Seville would not be complete without visiting Catedral de Sevilla. Rich in history, this 16th century cathedral was built on a site that originally belonged to a mosque in the 12th century. Stroll down Avenida de la Constitución to take in the grandeur of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Catedral de Sevilla on Avenida de la Constitución
On the other side, facing Plaza Virgen de los Reyes, is the Giralda, the cathedral’s bell tower.
Giralda at night
Alcázar
Next to one World Heritage Site is another, the Alcázar, a palace that is still used by the royal family on occasion and serves as their official Andalusian residence. On most other days, however, it makes a great tourist attraction for the rest of us.
Royal Alcazars of Seville
The Royal Alcázar is really just next door to Catedral de Sevilla. So it’s something you can do back to back, provided your feet are willing. I’d definitely recommend getting an audio guide for €5 that’ll give you a lot of interesting information as you tour the palace grounds.
Horse Drawn Carriage Ride
If you were the brave soul who decided to visit both, the Catedral, as well as the Alcázar on the same day (is ‘brave’ the right word?), your not-so-royal feet would be begging for mercy by now. Luckily, even mere commoners like us can feel special in this day and age, thanks to these majestic creatures.
Take in a horse drawn carriage ride for €45
You’ll find horse carriages around the Catedral and the Alcázar. The roughly 40-minute ride will take you around town, part of it being alongside Guadalquivir River. Keys spots along the route include Palacio de San Telmo (president’s office), Plaza de España, Parque de María Luisa, and the luxurious (or so I’ve read) Hotel Alfonso XIII.
Palacio de San Telmo, office of the President of Andalusia
Plaza de España
Calle San Fernando
To say that two nights would do justice to Seville is a lie. But if that is all you can afford on a trip, this is something to consider. After all, who said one can’t return?
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