The Malecón, La Paz Cathedral, Balandra Beach (Playa Balandra en Español) are a few of the things that a Google search for "Things to do in La Paz" will return. But a far more grand scenery (dazzling, in fact) lies in the waters of the Sea of Cortez. Not to downplay the topside attractions in this hidden gem in the Baja California Peninsula, but as an avid diver, this might just be my most mind-blowing diving experience yet.
The dive sites near La Paz are mostly around Isla Espíritu Santo, an uninhabited island in the Sea of Cortez.
Isla Espíritu Santo in the Sea of Cortez
Unlike most of the dive operations in the Caribbean that offer morning and afternoon dives, no such thing in La Paz. It's an all-day affair here. Largely because all the dive sites are around Isla Espíritu Santo and getting to the island is no quick journey. You'll spend anywhere from 40-60 minutes each way on the boat. There is a camping option, but the season for that ends in early November. So if you want multiple days of diving (absolutely worth it), be prepared to spend a fair amount of time on the journey there. Although, with scenery like this, the journey might just be the destination.
Departing to Isla Espíritu Santo
Isla Espíritu Santo
Isla Espíritu Santo
The Dive Shop - Dive in La Paz
I went with a warm, friendly, and very accomodating dive operation in La Paz called Dive in La Paz. The day begins with a check-in at 8:15 am at their shop in downtown La Paz, followed by a 5-minute walk to the docks, where we board and set sail to the island. The crew are thoroughly knowledgable and attentive to your every need. A picnic lunch is served between dives and you typically return around 4pm. The descriptions of the dive sites written here are courtesy of Dive in La Paz.
Fang Ming Wreck
This was the first dive site. The description from Dive in La Paz -
"The Fang Ming was a Chinese ship of 54 meters in length that served to transport illegal immigrants; therefore it was confiscated by the government of Mexico. After a while, in 1999 it was sunk by the government in order to create an artificial reef."
The artificial wreck sits vertically upright at a depth of 70 feet.
Bow of the Fang Ming
The Fang Ming
The operative word here is 'artificial'. Maritime tragedies generally do not take place within such proximity to land, so a lot of the wrecks that serve as dive attractions have been intentionally sunk. Over time, they provide a habitat for marine life to grow on and in them. One dead giveaway that a wreck is artificial is the large holes that are cut in the hull, making it penetrable by divers.
Penetrating the Fang Ming
Once inside, it can actually get quite dark. The many cut outs in and around the wreck will let in natural light, but it's also a good idea to carry a flashlight.
From inside the Fang Ming
But where there is sunlight, there is also greenery.
The wreck provides food and shelter for aquatic life over time. An ecosystem develops.
Feeding on the wreck
I was fortunate enough to encounter this beautiful sea turtle resting on the deck.
Sea Turtle on Deck
Sea Turtle on Deck
Sadly, there were too many of us for his comfort and he took flight.
Sea Turtle
San Rafaelito
San Rafaelito was the second dive site of the day. From Dive in La Paz -
"Serving Rock lighthouse signaling dominates and the home in the small colony of sea lions that live there. Under the sea is a very famous reef for night dives. You will appreciate the tranquility of the site at night, watching parrot fish and other fish asleep, several species of rays, octopus which love to play along."
The Lighthouse at San Rafaelito
And here's the evidence to that claim.
Reef in San Rafaelito
Starfish
King Angelfish of Cortez
Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish
On one side of the reef is a wall, that drops off to depths.
Wall, dropping off into an abyss
As you wrap up exploring the reef and get closer to the surface, you can expect to be greeted by these friendly sea lions that call this place home.
Lunch on a Beach
Since it was only fair that we were rewarded with some sustenance after all that exhausting diving, we headed to the nearby Seagull Beach for a picnic lunch.
Heading to Seagull Beach
And the beauty of a beach on an uninhabited island? It's all yours.
Seagull Beach
Seagull Beach
That wraps up Day 1 of diving. More sea lions and whale sharks on Day 2!
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